Five and a half /  by Mario Mirabile

The Cinque Terre (Five Lands) are a World Heritage listed series of small fishing and farming villages.  At least they were fishing and farming villages till the world discovered their charms, but it couldn't have been an easy discovery. They can be found perched in improbable locations along the steep shores of the Ligurian coast south of Genoa. The only way to reach them for a long time was by boat or foot, with the more recent addition of rail - there is no road access. The local terrain is incredibly difficult, with the mountains plunging straight into the sea.  While boat access to the villages is relatively straightforward, the location of the farms which dot the coast makes you wonder how people get in and out of them, let alone work the earth.

 The Cinqe Terre have become a major tourist draw-card, with people swarming to marvel at their colorful and steeply terraced houses. Naturally, this means that the hordes need to be catered for {and where possible, fleeced...), so every second house along the main streets has become a trattoria, gelatoria or souvenir stall. Sadly, this has dramatically affected the character of the villages, which of course also detracts from their photographic appeal. It also doesn't  help that the ferry schedules don't lend themselves to being there either very early or very late when the light is best. I kept wishing I could return at sunset, 30 years ago.

I think what made these gems so popular is that they are so close together. There is at most a few kilometers between each of them, making it possible to walk between all five in a single day (at least when the walking track is open). However, similar villages can be found all along the coast. The hamlet of Tellaro is not quite on the same scale, but is similarly attractive, can be reached by bus from Lerici, has a single cafe, and hardly any tourists. Five and a half lands? 

Poetic /  by Mario Mirabile

The bay of poets can be found at the southern end of the Italian Riviera, near the major port city of La Spezia. It takes its name from the many poets and writers who stayed and found inspiration there - Lord Byron, Percy and Mary Shelley, Charles Dickens, Virginia Woolf and D. H. Lawrence among many others. It is book-ended by the small resort towns of Lerici and San Terenzo. Both feature a fort above the town, remnants of the days when Genoa was a major naval power and needed to defend its ports. These days, they serve simply to help frame pictures of these pretty little towns.

Postcards /  by Mario Mirabile

Postcards. My parting shot from Venice.

Faces in the street /  by Mario Mirabile

I learned a new Italian word on this trip - ritratto. It means portrait, and it's what I would ask my subjects for rather than a photo. I don't know if it improved my success rate, but it at least sounds less intrusive and confrontational.  All were locals of Venice or the surrounding towns except one. The Japanese girl I spotted several times on the island of Burano. She had a small tripod with her phone mounted on it, and would find a likely location where she would spend several minutes snapping selfies. After we crossed paths for the third time, I couldn't resist asking for a photo (no ritratto this time).

So, in order, I present la tourista, il libraio, il mercante di vetro, il pescivendolo, il professore and la matrona.

Swept away /  by Mario Mirabile

Of course Venice is not all play. Someone has to work, but as long as it's not me, I don't mind. Leaving aside those who sell souvenirs, provide accommodation or cook and dish up food, Venice has it's share of interesting jobs. It could be something as simple as singing 70's American ballads with a thick Italian accent, which let me tell you is much better than it sounds. If you're lucky, you could find plenty of time time to write your journal while baby sitting a collection medieval stringed instruments.  Perhaps you could meticulously engrave intricate designs in gold leaf on glass. And if it's a slow day, you may just have to prop in the doorway and wait for customers.

One common task in Venice is sweeping. The millions of tourists who pass through each year make a terrible mess, and someone's got to clean it up. Aside from the gondoliers, one of the most iconic Venetian occupation is that of spazzino. Every morning, the spazzini take to the streets armed with their distinctive long wicker brooms, which wouldn't look out of place being ridden by a witch. It's hard to believe that these things are anything more than historical affectations for the tourists until you see them in action. They actually do a very good job of cleaning up all the scraps of paper and cigarette butts. And with all the tourists, sounds like a secure job for life.

You wouldn't read about it /  by Mario Mirabile

Libreria Alta Acqua may not be the oddest bookshop in the world, but it's probably up there. It's almost certainly the oddest bookstore in Venice. Tucked away on a hard to find back street, it's well worth looking out if you're in the area. The jovial owner sits perched at the register greeting and chatting with each potential customer as they enter. If you're lucky one of the resident cats will be there to greet you as well. It sells a huge and eclectic variety of books, mostly, but by no means all, in Italian.

What makes it odd? Well, where do I start. Perhaps it's the gondola full of reading material which runs most of the length of the main room, but this is Venice after all. Perhaps it's the bathtubs full of books scattered here and there - very handy in case of flood I suppose, as would be the gondola. Perhaps it's their way of sorting books by tossing them into unreachable locations on top of already teetering piles, cursing, then tossing them back till they stick if they dare to fall (all the while with a cigarette dangling from the corner of your mouth). Perhaps it's the staircase constructed of old and weighty tomes in the courtyard which customers are encouraged to climb so they can admire the canal on the other side of the wall (can you imagine the health and safety issues this would raise in Australia????). Perhaps it's a bit of all of it. You wouldn't read about it - but you just did.

P.S  I found out today that I should have checked out the book sorter's interesting collection of erotica. Sadly, I'm now on the other side of the country and not likely to return soon.

The locals /  by Mario Mirabile

Venice is a fascinating place to visit, but I doubt I could live here. Most people who work in Venice live in the surrounding areas and commute in by train or bus - there are no cars or bikes anywhere. But people do live here - some 60,000 of them. Private residences are scattered throughout the city, even in the most touristy areas. Like any other community, it has schools, supermarkets, corner shops, public transport and the odd church or two (well, 139 according to Google). 

I can't imagine what it what it would be like to open my front door and gaze into the passing hordes of tourists, not to mention the odd annoying photographer. But people seem to cope, and I've yet to witness any aggravation against the blow-ins. They go about their business, walk their dogs, have earnest conversations (they always seem earnest - perhaps it's all the hand gestures) in loud voices, sit and contemplate life and the children play street soccer against a backdrop of medieval buildings. The dogs surprised me somewhat. For no particularly good reason I was surprised to see so many of them here. The other thing that I couldn't work out for a while was why it it seemed so strange to see people using their mobile phones. It finally struck me that that they were talking on them. Only the tourists text here. I suppose you can't gesture while you're texting.

Back streets /  by Mario Mirabile

If you see a picture postcard view of a Venetian canal, it will almost certainly certainly be of the Grand Canal. That's as it should be, the Grand Canal has its charms and runs through the heart of Venice. It's busy, bustling and lined with major attractions. And with tourists. Tourists in hordes,  along with everything that goes along with them. Burger King, genuine Chinese made Venetian souvenirs, touts, pickpockets - the list goes on.

But wander only 50 metres or so from the Grand Canal and the true charm of Venice is revealed. There are locals wandering around seeing to their business, shops and cafes are smaller and less crowded, the coffee and food cheaper and better. The canals are not nearly so grand, but without the ceaseless churn of ferries, water taxis and gondolas, they appear more or less what they are. Local back streets.

Landed /  by Mario Mirabile

Well,we've arrived in Venice (a couple of days ago actually...). The flight was uneventful and as tedious as any 24 hour international flight can be. I've seen so many images of Venice, but didn't really know what to expect or how I'd react. As it turns out, I continue to be charmed and amazed every time I walk round a corner, particularly away from the main tourist drawcards.

Although we're yet to see the sun and the light is very flat, I've been snapping away happily. I haven't had any downtime to speak of till now (it's raining) to have a good look at what I've been capturing, but I did promise you a picture of a gondola to prove we've arrived, so here it is. The second picture is from the end of our "street" - our accommodation is down the end on the right. And, just in case a gondola doesn't float your boat, how about a gondolier?

P.S. If the pictures look a bit funny, it's because I'm editing them on my laptop, which must have one of the worst screens known to man.

Taking flight /  by Mario Mirabile

The male Superb Fairywren is glorious bird in its breeding plumage. Unless you're very lucky, they're hard to get close to, prone to taking flight at any moment.

Like them, I'll be taking flight in a couple of days (I know, I know, a terrible segue....). - I'm off to Italy and Ireland with Trish. We'll be gone 5 weeks, but don't despair, I hope to be posting regularly while we're away. We'll be arriving in Venice,  where we'll be spending the first few days.  I'll post a picture of a gondola so you'll know we've arrived.

Military memories /  by Mario Mirabile

April 25th, Anzac Day, is the day when Australia commemorates those who served in conflict. It’s a day which has not always been without controversy. Through the 60s and 70s, during the height of opposition to the Vietnam War, there was a widespread perception that it glorified war. That view has largely waned, and it is now seen more as a celebration of national identity as well as a way to remember and honor those who fell and those who returned.

However you feel about Anzac Day, those who fought the battles were everyday men and women. They lived and loved like any other, and given a choice between being at home or being at war, few would choose war. For those who returned, Anzac day is a chance to reconnect with those who shared the experience, to remember the good times and the bad, and be glad they found their way home.

Sally sings /  by Mario Mirabile

5:30 Pm on a Thursday - the height of the commuter rush hour for Flinders Street station. Quite a good time to ply your trade as a busker you'd think, but Sally Chatfield had drawn only a small, albeit appreciative audience. Perhaps rushing to get on a train and get home to put your feet up or get dinner for the family was more on most peoples mind. But those who did stop to listen to Sally accompanied by Millie Tizzard were treated to an outstanding performance.

Sally, who wowed the audience on the X-Factor a few years back, has a sensational voice and real presence. She deserves a bigger stage and audience. So next time you're rushing to catch a train, stop and take the time to listen and appreciate if Sally and Millie are strutting their stuff. You'll be well rewarded, and there'll be another train in a few minutes.